
A minimum payment is the smallest amount the card issuer will accept without marking the account late. It is calculated from the balance, not from what you can afford, and it is designed to keep the account open rather than to clear the debt. Understanding the formula explains why a balance can survive a decade of on-time payments.
Most issuers take a percentage of the balance, commonly 1 to 3 percent, then add the interest charged that month plus any fees, and set a floor such as 25 or 35. The percentage applies to the balance, so the minimum shrinks as the balance falls. Interest, by contrast, is charged on whatever is still owed, which is why the two move at different speeds.
Some countries require a minimum that also repays a slice of principal, for example 1 percent of principal plus that month's interest. Others allow interest-only minimums, where the balance never falls unless you pay more. That difference alone can turn a five-year payoff into an indefinite one.
The floor matters for small balances. On a 90 balance at 22 percent APR the interest is about 1.65, and the percentage-based minimum would be under 3, so the issuer's floor of 25 becomes the payment. Small balances clear quickly because the floor forces principal repayment.
Convert the APR to a monthly rate by dividing by 12. Twenty-two percent becomes 0.018333 per month. Interest for month one is 5,000 x 0.018333, which is 91.67. If the minimum is 2 percent of the balance plus interest, that is 100 plus 91.67, so the payment is 191.67.
Of that 191.67, only 100 reduces the balance. The other 91.67 is interest. Month two starts at 4,900, interest is 89.83, and the payment is 0.02 x 4,900 plus 89.83, which is 187.83. The payment keeps falling as the balance falls, and so does the pace of repayment.
Paid this way the balance takes roughly 15 to 20 years to clear depending on the exact percentage, and total interest ends up many times larger than the original 5,000. Paying 250 every month instead clears the same balance in about two years and costs a small fraction of that interest, because 158 of the first 250 goes to principal rather than 100.
The percentage is applied to a shrinking number, so the payment shrinks too. This is the core mechanic: a 2 percent minimum on 5,000 is 100 of principal, but a 2 percent minimum on 2,500 is only 50. Halfway through the debt you are repaying principal at half the original rate.
Interest is charged on the daily balance, so new spending immediately adds cost. A 200 purchase on the 15th of the month accrues interest from its transaction date, not from the statement date. Carrying a balance while continuing to spend is how balances plateau.
The final years are the slowest. A drop from 2,500 to 1,000 can take as long as the drop from 5,000 to 2,500, even though more than twice as much principal was repaid in the first stretch.
Fix the payment in currency, not in percentage. Choose a figure that covers interest plus a deliberate amount of principal, for example 250 a month on the 5,000 balance, and keep paying that until the card is clear. Never let a falling minimum reduce your payment.
The second step is to stop adding to the balance while repaying it. In the example above, even 50 of new spending a month offsets half of the principal progress and pushes the payoff date out by years.
Set the payment to leave the account the day after payday, so it moves before the money is spent elsewhere. Paying by standing order at a fixed figure is more reliable than paying by hand at whatever the minimum happens to be.
Third, target the highest rate first when you have several balances. On two debts, one at 22 percent and one at 9 percent, every spare pound or dollar sent to the 22 percent card removes more interest per unit paid. Switching repayment order alone can cut total interest without changing the amount you pay each month.
This article is educational only and is not financial advice. Figures vary by country and lender, so check the rules that apply where you live.